Things of Interest on Mull 2024

I often get asked by folk what I’d recommend folk to do when visiting Mull. I thought I’d create a blog post to give some tips on the different things that we enjoy to see if that’s of use. It’s important to say that these are my own recommendations, no one has paid for their business to be included. There are a wide range of others than those listed offering fine services and experiences on the island, these are just the ones that stick out for me at this moment in time. A much more balanced perspective can be found on Visit Mull and Iona’s site. I recommend visiting Visit Scotland’s visitor information centre at Craignure beside the ferry office, too. They can tell you what’s going on that week, what to watch out for with weather and give you all sorts really good, balanced and personable advice. We’ve only got them for a few months more until Visit Scotland close down their visitor facing operations across the nation, so do make the most of their skill while you can.
I’ll do another post that looks at Iona another time as there’s so much to say about it. Some people even say that King Arthur is buried there, but that’s a tale for another time!

There’s so much to do on Mull, it’s hard to choose what to do.
The first thing I’d definitely say though is if you’re coming here for the first time, please be aware of how to drive on single track roads. If someone behind you is indicating, flashing their lights or tooting, please use a passing place to let them past. When you pull in, please make sure to pull in to your left hand side, as if you cross over to go to the right you’d be crossing the flow of the traffic and putting yourself and other road users in great danger. Here’s a video that Georgia made about this which a lot of people really enjoy.

Tours

If you’re keen to see wildlife and scenery, Mull is the place to come to, no two ways about it.
My personal favourite tour is to go out from Ulva Ferry to Staffa and the Treshnish Isles for a day trip with Turus Mara. You can also choose to go with them to Staffa alone for half a day. On certain days you can also go out to Staffa and Iona with them. If you want to see Puffins, Turus Mara are the folk to go with. Other tour operators are available, some depart from Tobermory, and they all do fine jobs, but TM have the best offer to my tastes. Iain, Colin and Fergus are fine skippers and will see you right in all kinds of weather.

Nature Scotland offer wildlife watching tours around the island. You travel with Ewan and his team in their minibus and explore all sorts of locations that you’d not likely notice on your own. They always encounter a wide range of interesting birds and beasts. There’s a lot of kindness and passion in Ewan’s work that makes his tours deeply appealing.

If you’re after something a bit different you could arrange a geology tour with local geologist James Westland through Mull Geology. Mull has some of the most interesting geology in this part of the world. James makes it all so understandable and communicates with clarity and passion. He’s also a Gaelic speaker, so if you’re after something in Gaelic, he’s your man, gu dearbh!

Mull Magic offer a series of walking tours around the island including a guided tour of Tobermory. Ruth’s a very experienced guide and does a lot of work for cruise liners visiting the town alongside her own company.

My friend Tony Spillane has recently started his own taxi and taxi tour company, Mull Taxi. His tours include visits to Iron Age fortifications and Clan land visits. Keep your eyes on his website to see what all other tours he’s going to develop. Tony comes from New Zealand and has worked as a builder on the island for years, so he knows the place inside out.

Driving Around

North Mull
Calgary Bay in the North of the island is very special, but hidden away down a track with a good walk before it is Langamull, which is very much worth your while to seek out. It’s a bonnie, wide beach that looks out over to the Cairns of Coll.

Croig looks out over to Canna, Rum, Muck and Skye and is one of the most photogenic places on the island. It’s a very tight road though and parking is not easy down there. The pier is a very active one, so do be conscious of where you leave your car if you’re passing that way.

The journey from Calgary round the coast and then over to Salen is very special indeed. It’s not the easiest drive, there are precipitous cliffs and tricky hairpins here and there, so do make sure you’d be confident driving in that kind of terrain before you head over that way. Make sure to stop in and see Charlotte’s Tin Shed Gallery on your way, she’s always got something interesting on show.

Middle of the Island – to the Ross of Mull

The road to Grass Point offers views out over the Firth of Lorne and Sound of Mull that are well worth seeing. The wee pier down at Grass Point is a bonnie, bonnie spot.

Heading down the road from Craignure to Fionnphort is a stunning journey.
You should also explore the scenic route to Salen, which can be found just before you get to Pennyghael, heading from the North and after heading from the South. That route takes you over some roads that are tricky, but the views are worth the journey. Looking out over towards Inch Kenneth and then to the sea and Treshnish isles to the North West from above Balmeanach is a remarkable thing.

A trip to Carsaig is always worth it. Again, it’s a rotter of a road, but the views on the way there are significant. This is where a lot of I Know Where I’m Going was filmed, so keep your eyes peeled for the phone box and what remains of the pier.

Each part of Mull is really quite different to the other. Lochbuie is very special indeed. The drive there is well worth it, especially if you can coincide with the Old Post Office’s opening hours. Moy Castle can be found there, too, which is a particularly interesting stronghold from days past.

Areas: Eating Out; Walks and Attractions

I’ll break this section down into areas. The borderlines are a bit sketchy, but if you look at a map or follow the links provided you should see what I’m on about.

One of the reasons I love living on Mull is the variety of walks we have available to us.
There’s a really great wee book called Mull and Iona: 40 Favourite Walks which lists, well, 40 of them.
There are pure hunners and hunners of walks, the ones included in the lists below are just some of my favourites.

Tobermory

Eating out

Tobermory has loads of restaurants to choose from. It features a range of pricesfrom pub grub through to tasting menu style extravagance.

Glengorm Coffee Shop outside of Tobermory is a fine bet for lunch. There’s loads of amazing walking round there to be had, too. It’s one of my favourite parts of the island.

The Glass Barn just outside of Tob on the Glengorm Road does great food, too. It’s such a lovely space to spend time in. If you like cheese you’ll definitely want to visit Isle of Mull Cheese at Sgriobruadh farm, where the Glass Barn is situated.

I rather like the Galleon Bistro in Tob. The food is very well crafted indeed and the service is very fine.

The Western Isles Hotel do very fine food and swanky-dan cocktails. It’s a bit of a treat to go there. I’ve lived here since 2007 and the Western Isles, Tobermory’s signature hotel, has never been in better hands. It’s a great place to go for food or a cocktail.

The brilliant Helen Swindbanks runs the Hebridean Lodge on the way in to Tob from Salen at Baliscate. Treats galore for lunch are to be found in abundance there. Check out their website to see what evenings they’re opening for, too.

Attractions

• An Tobar / Mull Theatre have a look to see what’s on at our local arts centre. The performance space in An Tobar is a deeply special place filled with the memory of many fine performances.
• Isle of Mull Ice Cream. A tasty treat on the seafront.
• The Chip Van on the pier.
• Mull Museum. There’s so many exhibits in there, you’ll always find something new to see even if you’ve been in before.
• Browns, a unique shop that has everything you could possibly wish for. The staff are just the best, too. They’ll see you right.
• Tobermory Distillery, I’ve never been in on a tour, but I’ve filmed there and it’s a really interesting building with a very long history.
• When it opens again the Aquarium will be well worth going to see.
• Tobermory Bay Tours. A pootle around the harbour, lovely stuff.
• The Screen Machine – a cinema on the back of an articulated lorry. If it’s in town when you are, make sure to go and see something, it’s a brilliant thing!
• Sgriobruadh cheese farm. Watch the delicious Mull cheese being made. See video for a taste of what’s on offer.

Walks

• The Lighthouse path from Tob [Shortish walk]
• Aros Park from Ledaig carpark, Tob [Shortish walk]
• Ardmore [Medium]
• Along the Mishnish Lochs to ‘S Airde Beinn and up to the top of the Crater Loch. Highest return for the shortest walk of that sort on the island. [Mediumish walk]

Dervaig, Calgary and beyond

Eating out

In Dervaig you can find one of the island’s greatest culinary assets – Ar Bòrd. Joyce and Iain run a very special operation there, responding to the seasons and what foods they’ve foraged. It has such a brilliant reputation, you must make sure to book with them as it fills up very quickly.

One of my very favourite places to eat is Am Birlinn, at Penmore on the way to Calgary. They do lunch and dinner and specialise in local produce and seafood. The haggis spring rolls are my favourite starter, with the mushroom brioche coming in second place. If Reudi has the sauerbraten on the specials when you’re there, you’re in for a treat and a half! Angela and her team will make you very welcome. It’s a great place.

The Bellachroy in Dervaig is an atmospheric pub with the finest landlords on the island. It’s worth going in to check and see what they have on offer for their pub grub.

The Cafe at Calgary is a really interesting space to sit and have some lunch. Their gallery ad shop next door and the Art in Nature trail make this a most appealing morning or afternoon out. Not to mention the bay down the road, of course.

Croft 3 at Fanmore on the way to Ulva Ferry is a beautiful, specially built restaurant. It has been refurbished from an old ruin overlooking the sound of Ulva and is really something special. Jeanette is a brilliant cook, whose haggis is well renowned. Check out their website and social media to see what absolute delights they have for you. Their Sunday lunches are very well regarded. I’m desperate to get over for their curry nights.

Attractions

• Standing stones. As you come to the first down hill section before reaching the village of Dervaig there are some standing stones beyond the carpark and viewpoint on your right hand side. There are others further into the woodland which are well worth seeing if you’re feeling adventurous. I’d say it’s worth seeking guidance on how to get to those ones. They’re among my favourites though.
• Dugie’s Shop. A great local shop with super staff. It’s also a post office.
• Kilmore Church. A beautiful church with a white pencil tower. The stained glass windows feature in Dan Brown’s Davinci Code for the most spurious of reasons… If that’s the level of research he did for the rest of his book, well, at least it was a fun read.
• The Old Byre. A cafe, gift shop and local history exhibition. The models there are beautifully made and really fascinating. There’s a play area, too.
• Calgary Art in Nature. A woodland arts trail that’s well worth your time. Stunning location with beautiful artworks out in the wild. The cafe and gallery are rather good, too. You can get Georgia’s cards there, too (or from her website).
• Calgary Bay and Calgary Pier. The most famous beach in the North of Mull. The pier is a beautiful pink granite construction which has fallen on hard times, from where many people went out to the boats that took them to the new world in the time of the clearances.
• Inivea, a cleared village above Calgary. Great views and fascinating ruins. Former Dr Who David (MacDonald) Tennant’s folks came from here.
• Calgary headland. A really pleasing short walk out to the headland looking over to Coll and Tiree.
• The Tin Shed Gallery. Charlotte Mellis’ gallery always has something interesting on to see!

Walks

• The Langamull loop – going from the carpark, along the track, down to the beach, along the coastline and then back up from Aird, up the Croig road along to the Langamull carpark. [Longer walk]
• Quinish walk. Walk from the village of Dervaig out to the Quinish headland. [Mediumish]
• The Treshnish Headland walk, from the Tin Shed Gallery, down through the old villages of Crackaig and Glac Gugairidh down to the shore and along the headland, through Treshnish farm and back to wherever you’ve chosen to leave your car up there. [Longer walk]
• Dervaig to Glengorm through the forestry roads. Stop off at the Glengorm Cafe for lunch before heading back. [Longer walk]

The Isle of Ulva

Ulva, just Ulva. Go, it’s a magical place. It’s a community owned island and pointing in a very interesting direction for the years to come. The only thing to note is that it’s closed on Sundays. And it’s really ticky, make sure to wear wellies and take tick repellent.
The Boathouse there does food and has a fine reputation.
Walk to the South side and bbq some scallops on the beach. That’s what we did for my stag do and it was wonderful. [Longer walk]

Salen

Eating Out

If you’re after lunches then Salen is the place to go. The Little Bespoke Bakery do both takeaway and sit in lunches. They also do coffees, teas and cakes of the finest baking. Across the road from them is The Coffee Pot who offer sandwiches, bakes and beverages. I’m a big fan of their work, especially their sausage rolls, which to my mind are the finest to be found on the island.

Attractions

• The boats at Salen. People love taking shots of the old decaying boats on the shore at Salen.
• Salen Spar – the finest snacks you could ever wish to find can be sought out at the Salen Spar. It also has everything else you’d expect from a Spar store. A very impressive local shop and post office.
• The old ruined church at Pennygown. One of my favourite spots on the island. There are loads of interesting stones in the old church and around the outside.

Walks

• Forest walk through from Allt an t-Searmoin on the Gruline Free road, over the top of the forestry road and back down into Salen and back round to Allt an t-Searmoin. [Medium]
• Garmony to Fishnish. Park at the carpark on the shore side near the rugby ground and follow the path along the shore to Garmony and then come back the same way. [Shortish walk]

Craignure

Eating Out

I’ve been hearing really great things about Pennygate Lodge at Craignure, but am yet to make it along to check it out. I must try it this summer. The Isle of Mull Hotel nearby has a wide range of foods on offer, which could be a suitable treat after a dip at their swimming pool.

Attractions

• MESS a local charity shop. The things you can find in this shop are beyond belief. I once found a machine that made eggs into eggy lollipops. I had to buy it for one of my dearest friends, with whom we exchange the worst of gifts at Christmas and birthday time. Their book selection is always worth checking out. As chazzers go, this is among the finest you will ever find.
• Duart Castle. An absolutely fascinating castle with a wealth of history about the MacLean clan. Great tea room and gift shop, too.

Walking

• Scallastle forest walk. Lovely views out over the Sound of Mull and the Firth of Lorne. [Shortish walk]
• Gualachaolish walk. A cracker. Go when it’s been dry for a while. Otherwise take your wellies.

Lochbuie

Eating Out

The Old Post Office at Lochbuie is a very special lunchtime stop and coffee shop. It’s well worth the journey to Lochbuie for this stop alone.

Attractions

• The Lochbuie stone circle is the most significant collection of standing stones on the island. It’s really worth a trip to see. Wear your wellies though if it’s been raining.
• St Kilda’s Church. A beautiful little church. A very special building with interesting stained glass.
• Moy Castle. This is the business. It features at the end of I Know Where I’m Going. A very striking fortress with a fascinating history. There’s no interpretation around it, but have a dig around online for the story behind it. Here’s a nice story about the area around there.
• Tobar Choluim-Chille / St Columba’s Well it’s a good trek to this well but it may be of interest to you. It’s a natural spring that comes out of the ground. Some children on Mull were baptised with the water from this well.

Carsaig

Attractions

• The pier at Carsaig is well worth seeking out. It’s now mostly ruined, but at one time is was a significant pier. Again, this pier plays a significant role in the film I Know Where I’m Going.

Pennyghael

Eating Out

I need to go and check out the Inn at Port nan Gael, too. It’s a perfect stopping off place on the road from the North heading down to the Ross of Mull.

Attractions

• Crois an Ollaimh – An 8th century cross rededicated in the middle ages to honour the remarkable Beaton clan, medical practitioners who worked from this area and had a massive impact on Scottish life.

Bunessan Area

Attractions

• Scoor Beach This is a very scenic beach that not many people get to see.
• Kilvickeon Church and graveyard. A fascinating old kirk yard. There’s a cracking ghost story about this kirk in John Gregorson Campbell’s book the Gaelic Otherworld. I’ll try and put a link to it in a later draft of this post.
• Ross of Mull Historical Centre a local history and heritage centre. Small but crammed full of interesting things. It gives a flavour of life in the Ross in the past. They also publish books and have a History of the Ross of Mull by Stewart Cameron that’s very much worthwhile seeking out.
• Mess’ 24 hour 2nd hand book shop. Amazing selection of books with an honesty box to pay for your purchases. All funds raised go to support local causes. Park at the car park oposite the hotel and walk up the hill and you’ll see it in the courtyard on your left.
• Ardalanish Weavers Fantastically swanky woven goods. Things to covet for sure. There’s also a farm shop there.
• Ardalanish Bay a very bonnie bay indeed. Looks out to Colonsay, Jura and Islay.

Walking

• Camas Tuath (Camas). I love it down at Camas. I made a film about the salmon netting that took place there. It was an absolute pleasure to walk down there and film away.

Fionnphort Area

Eating Out

In Fionnphort I’d recommend the Keel Row as a place to have food and a pint. It’s a community owned pub and very welcoming indeed. They have sessions on every now and again, too, which are well worth checking out.

The Ninth Wave is truly unique Mull and its reputation is stellar. This year they’re doing lunches only, so do check their availability on their website as tables go quickly. You may very well have seen Carla on Master Chef a few years ago where she blew the judges’ socks off. Book early, I’d say.

Attractions

• Knockvologan Beach a stunning beach that leads to the tidal island of Erraid. I’m still to set foot on Erraid, but plan to do so soon. It’s got a fascinating history!
• Fidden Beach which is three lovely beaches. Well worth a sprachle along the shore. One of my absolute favourite places on the island.
• South West Mull Makers the shopfront for a collective of artists working in and around South West Mull. Park at the main carpark at the back of Fionnphort and you’ll find it there.
• Tormore Quarry I’ve already mentioned this in the walking part of this post. It’s a lovely area to explore.
• Kintra is one of my favourite spots on the island. A small settlement that was founded at the same time as Tobermory by the Fisheries

Walks

• Creich to Fidden going via Pottie. A lovely circular walk.
• Fionnphort – Tormore and back over the hill. This takes you to an amazing pink granite quarry. Go up the hill and look out over to Iona. A real treat. [Mediumish walk]

Public Toilets

There are a number of public toilets on the island.

• Craignure: Opposite the ferry terminal on your left hand side facing the Cal Mac offices.
• Salen: Heading out of the village in the direction of Tob they’re on your right hand side.
• Tobermory: The harbour buildings at Ledaig down by the pontoons.
• Dervaig: Through the main body of the village on the Quinish Road past the bend at the pink house, the small wooden building on your left hand side. New for 2024.
• Calgary Bay: In the woodlands on your left hand side as you head towards the far side of the bay.
• Bunessan: Opposite the fire station on your left hand side just before you get to the hotel.
• Fionnphort: In the big building at the head of the pier.

I hope this all helps contribute to you having a lovely break here on Mull. It’s a very special place and I’m conscious of just how lucky I am to live here.
If this post has been of use to you, and if you’re able, please consider making a small donation to my KOFI account (What We Do in the Winter). Of course, don’t worry if you can’t or don’t want to, I just hope this makes your visit easier.

All the best to you, have a great break!